The journal
Longer pieces that did not fit into the guide: three days in a capital most people skip, what a week really costs, how to walk into the Accursed Mountains and what to order once you come back down.
City guide
Most people give the capital an afternoon on the way to Prizren. Here is what happens when you stay put instead: brutalist landmarks, a two hour coffee culture and the best night out in the Balkans.
Food and drink
Kosovo eats well and cheaply: clay pot bakes, coiled pastry sold by weight before nine in the morning, and a layered pancake that takes half a day to make. A field guide to ordering properly.
Hiking
The full loop takes ten days across three countries. The Kosovo stretch through the Rugova valley makes a serious three day trip on its own, and it is the part with the guesthouses.
Trip planning
Real numbers from a seven day trip: beds, buses, dinners, a hire car and the coffee habit you will pick up. Kosovo remains one of the cheapest countries in Europe to travel, but not everything is a euro.
